A shift toward modern and contemporary galleries at TEFAF Maastricht also had an impact on jewelry exhibitors, whether they are contemporary jewelry artists or vintage dealers. FD Gallery, Symbolic & Chase, Siegelson and Cindy Chao replaced Place Vendome jeweler, Reza, and the combined mid-20th-Century brands of Verdura and Belperron.
Sapphire, diamond and titanium and yellow gold earrings by Sabba on display in the FD Gallery booth at TEFAF MaastrichtANTHONY DEMARCO
These new exhibitors were among the 40 firms that were invited to the prestigious art fair for the first time, now in its 32nd year. Lee Siegelson of the Siegelson gallery in New York said he’s been applying for 15 years while Cindy Chao said she’s been trying for 10 years.
The prestigious art fair in the southern Netherlands city of Maastricht opened to the public Sunday and will run till March 24.
Two sets of earrings by the Indian high jewelry house, Bhagat on display by FD GalleryANTHONY DEMARCO
All the newcomers made impressive debuts at the fair. For example, Fiona Drunkemuller founder of the FD Gallery in New York, presented all of the requisite names, such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari and others. However, two sets of earrings stood out, both by the famed Indian high jewelry house, Bhagat. The first were earrings in the shape of white gold spheres set with approximately 42 carats of rose cut diamonds, circa 2018. The second, is a pair of natural pearl and diamond earrings mounted in platinum. Another piece that demanded attention was an art object by David Webb, a frog made of rough-textured 18k yellow gold with carved emerald eyes and round-cut diamond highlights.
Just as impressive are the collection of one–of-a-kind contemporary earrings by one of the top young high jewelry artists in the world, Alessandro Sabbatini of Sabba, exclusively for FD Gallery. The earrings are all markedly different, with the exception that titanium is used for nearly all of the pieces. Among the items on display was a set of large rectangular-shaped earrings made of sapphires diamonds set in titanium (top photo); star-shaped diamond ear clips in titanium and yellow gold; and “tremblant” diamond earrings set in gold in a cascading tree-like shape that enhances the trembling effect.
JAR sapphire and diamond earrings being offered by Symbolic & Chase and may have been sold on the second day.ANTHONY DEMARCO
Symbolic & Chase of London offered a number of pieces of Royal provenance, including a necklace by Cartier with a number of dangling tear-shaped emeralds and a number of items by contemporary jeweler, JAR, including a pair of fan-shaped sapphire, emerald and diamond earrings that were gone during the second preview day.
The 120-carat Nizam Diamond on a long and luscious emerald and ruby necklace by SiegelsonANTHONY DEMARCO
As promised, Siegelson, came with two big debuts. First, a collection of 100 aluminum earrings featuring a number of metal techniques, designed and constructed over a three years by jewelry artist, Daniel Brush; and the Nizam Diamond, a 120-carat tear-shaped diamond unearthed at the Golconda mines in India. This historic stone is named after the last monarch of Hyderabad, who owned the jewel. It is being presented in a Mughal-inspired in a long and luscious emerald and ruby necklace designed by Siegelson. Another small detail is that prongs holding the diamond are made of ruby.
A flower brooch made of brown titanium encrusted with diamonds in a gradation of colors (230 carats total and 6,300 stones) centered with an 84-carat cabochon emerald by Cindy CHao. Surrounding the emerald are stamen made with an ancient lacquer technique done by a specific manufacturer in France.ANTHONY DEMARCO
Among the contemporary high jewelry artists, Cindy Chao, was the newcomer and she brought with her a collection of big, bold and sculptural emeralds jewels that were delicately crafted. A large emerald necklace centered by a yellow diamond was one of the impressive pieces along with a flower brooch made of brown titanium encrusted with diamonds in a gradation of colors (230 carats total and 6,300 stones) centered with an 84-carat cabochon emerald. Surrounding the emerald are stamen made with an ancient lacquer technique done by a specific manufacturer in France.
Ruby encrusted bow tie with a 76-carat old mine cut styled diamond by Cindy ChaoANTHONY DEMARCO
It wasn’t all emeralds for the Taiwanese-born and Hong Kong-based jeweler. She also presented a ruby-encrusted bow tie centered with a 76-carat F VS1 cut in the old mine style for Chao.
The Hera transformable peacock brooch.by Wallace ChanANTHONY DEMARCO
The most impressive jewelry artist in the fair was Wallace Chan, who again tackled universal themes with his colorful, highly crafted artworks. Among the new items on display were three pieces that stood out. The first was a large titanium peacock made as a shoulder brooch, named “Hera.” It was created without feathers but instead was more of a skeletal structure with shimmer stems throughout in colorful diamonds and gems that appear to change depending based on the angle of light. Its tail features a large blue and white opal in a colorful diamond surround with stems of pearls that can be removed and worn as a ring.
The Butterfly Nebula by Wallace ChanANTHONY DEMARCO
Another stunner is the titanium “Butterfly Nebula,” inspired by a cosmic formation that Chan viewed on on NASA’s website with radiant and ever-changing colors encrusted on the metal. Finally, there was the “Wheel of Time,” 12 large and light titanium necklaces with each referring to the Chinese Zodiac figure. Here the technique of carving titanium into creatures is on display in all its glory.
Amber earrings by HemmerleANTHONY DEMARCO
One of the venerable jewelry exhibitors, Hemmerle, keeps upping its game each year, presenting jewels using materials few associate with high jewelry and combining these mediums with impeccable craftsmanship and design details. Among the standouts are earrings made of highly polished amber shaped in rounded shaped with a blend of red, orange and brown colors. Another pair of earrings are made with dark reddish-brown jasper with black stripes centered with red tourmalines.
Emerald earrings by Glenn Spiro of GANTHONY DEMARCO
Glenn Spiro of G brought his collection of high jewels made with exceptional precious gems and metals as well as ancient artifacts. One of his notable creations are white flower earrings centered with rubies that produce a warm green glow in the dark. Speaking of green, he presented earrings with spectacular pearl-shaped and pentagon-shaped emeralds as well as petite, star-shaped earrings with luscious rubies cut in a variety of shapes. There are also a number of purple titanium jewels on display.
London jeweler, Hancocks, is selling a necklace it originally sold, circa 1865ANTHONY DEMARCO
Two London-based vintage jewelry dealers put on their annual display of exceptional jewels from many periods. For Hancocks, it was variety, from its own collection of bridal jewels made with old mine cut diamonds to popular pieces by Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier, to London-based modern jeweler, Andrew Grima.
One item of special note is an antique gold, banded agate, pearl and diamond festoon necklace, which was made by Hancocks, circa 1865. It is accompanied by its original fitted box, branded “Hancocks London.”
Lalique pendant necklace, 1900ANTHONY DEMARCO
Meanwhile, the venerable, Wartski, had a collection of Lalique jewels, including a gold, enamel and pearl necklace that was purchased by the daughter of Gustave Eiffel, at the 1900 Paris exhibition. A suite of jewels by Falize featured lovebirds made of multi-colored enamel set on yellow gold was also created around 1900. Of course a presentation of vintage jewels without a tiara and Wartski presented two with diamonds and pearls on white metal.
A vintage tiara being offered by WartskiANTHONY DEMARCO
Van Cleef & Arpels presented its annual mix of vintage and contemporary pieces, including a “Dragon Clip,” 1969, made with yellow gold, emeralds and lapis lazuli; a “Queen’s Head Clip,” 1959, made of yellow and white gold, platinum,sapphires, a ruby, turquoise and diamonds. The face is made of pink quartz. Among the new pieces was a suite of Folie des Prés collection of jewels with rubies, diamonds mounted on white and pink gold.
Van Cleef & Arpels Folie des Prés necklaceANTHONY DEMARCO