If challenged on his unconventional buildings, Oscar Niemeyer, architect of the Mac Niterói artwork gallery which hovers above Rio de Janeiro like a spaceship, would quote Charles Baudelaire: “Strangeness is a vital aspect of splendor.” As a classy philosophy, this sums up the Louis Vuitton catwalk series staged on the snaking ramps of the gallery at sunset on Saturday.
Out of the unidentified flying object curves of the constructing came models wearing parachute-silk cape-sponsored clothes with wetsuit zippers, or silk blouses stimulated by Brazilian artist Aldemir Martins’ art work of Pelé. The famous Louis Vuitton box trunks have been reincarnated as Copacabana beach ghettoblasters, entire with gold hardware and the LV monogram. within the front row, Catherine Deneuve watched imperious, while Brazilian twiglet Alessandra Ambrosio captured the instant for posterity with selfies.
there’s a strangeness to a style extravaganza on this scale being staged in a country that is inside the grip of recession, with an impeached president, endemic corruption, a prime health crisis looming over the Zika virus, and with the small count of an Olympic video games to host in months’ time. Unsurprisingly, dressmaker Nicolas Ghesquière took sufficient inventive licence within the photograph of Brazil he riffed on for this collection, specializing in a nostalgic Ipaneman glamour and Brazil’s wearing heritage.
the new phenomenon of “cruise” season, of which this show is part, is taking style to another size. 4 megabrands – Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Christian Dior and Gucci – have created an elite class of standalone fashion shows, which take location out of the cheek-by means of-jowl hustle of equipped-to-wear style weeks. each emblem vies for the maximum amazing locations and the most prestigious venues. three weeks in the past, Chanel staged its cruise show in Cuba; within the following couple of days, cruise-fever will arrive in the uk with Dior’s show at Blenheim Palace on Tuesday, carefully accompanied via Gucci’s at Westminster Abbey on Thursday.
in which everyday fashion weeks are rooted in a trade–show lifestyle, the cruise indicates promote the greater summary cutting-edge artwork of branding. Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel is cruise’s answer to pop art, all cartoon Cocos and Warholian colours. Ghesquière’s Louis Vuitton, in the meantime, is some thing extra oblique. he is via instinct an avant-garde dressmaker, and he brings an arthouse aesthetic to his blockbuster logo. If a Louis Vuitton cruise display turned into an art installation, it would be a Carsten Höller slide, or a room of Martin Creed’s white balloons.
The history of Louis Vuitton is in tour, no longer clothes, and Ghesquière has made the venues for his cruise collections an fundamental part of their photo, taking LV on a global excursion of elliptically curved space age structure. unidentified flying object-like homes have become as a lot a part of Louis Vuitton’s visual emblem as those boxy brown-and-gold trunks were fifty years in the past. The venue for closing year’s cruise show changed into Bob hope’s landmark Seventies-meets-the-future Palm Springs home. via commandeering the sector’s chicest spaceships as catwalks, Ghesquière continues the fantasy detail of the Vuitton lifestyle alive in an era where air travel has misplaced its glamour.
This become a sexier, extra body–aware Louis Vuitton. With their low-cut necklines and aspect reduce-outs, the opening clothes had the appearance of very dressed-up swimming wear. wherein skirts were lengthy they have been reduce to ribbons, for plenty of leg. The timelessly airy barren region-sand sun shades of closing 12 months’s Palm Springs collection had been replaced through bold, attention-grabbing colorations.
behind the curtain after the display, Ghesquière said it turned into the integration of sportswear into city style that he loved in Rio de Janeiro. “i’ve continually cherished the garments that girls wear on metropolis streets, and i am passionate about recreation and with motion. here in Rio, seaside existence is city existence.” The have an effect on of Brazil’s wearing heritage – and of a city approximately to host the Olympics – may be felt in the Pelé-print jerseys, in lightweight football shorts, and in scuba-fabric high–pinnacle footwear.
New LV muse Jaden Smith, teenage son of Hollywood actors Will Smith and Jada Pinkett Smith, lavished praise on the ones scuba high-tops behind the scenes after the show, pronouncing he hoped to wear them himself. The 17-year–old, whose appearance in a skirt in a Vuitton womenswear marketing campaign triggered a stir earlier this 12 months, drew by using far the loudest screams of the night while he became from speaking to Ghesquière to wave to the Brazilian teenagers collected outdoor the gallery. “I cherished that display,” he stated. “To me, it just looks as if the destiny.”